Goose Bourguignon with Beet Gnocchi

posted in: Cooking, Savory | 47


French purists and Julie and Julia-philes, avert your eyes! Did you know that you could bourguignon things besides beef? Did you also know that “to bourguignon” is actually a verb? Yes, it means “to make delicious via copious amounts of wine- preferably Burgundy.” You see, coming to SaltySeattle frequently’ll learn you something every time, won’t it?

Here’s the thing. A fair number of us make a Christmas goose. Problem is, goose meat left on the carcass after it’s been grazed over during the grand feast tends to tighten up. Some soften it by coating it in goose fat and jarring it into rillettes, but this year I wanted to do something more inventive with my goose, so I turned to peasants. Peasants are the most inventive sons of bitches you’ll ever meet, creating great delicacies from things like stones, snails, pig’s feet, and civet excrement.

Peasants taught me that simmering meat in a cauldron of wine is never a bad thing, and in return I wish to offer them (and you) this Goose Bourguignon as evidence to support that claim. I do it a little differently than the traditional Escoffier/Julia/Ina method in that the initial goose meat has already been cooked, but guess what? It’s easier this way, shhhh, don’t tell.

Also, I add secret, decidedly un-peasant-like ingredients like Meyer lemon zest (regular zest will do fine), molasses, and verjus. This way you can feel fancy if you want to, because I know how much you like being a fancy dancer in the kitchen.  The molasses and verjus get slathered upon the traditional pearl onions to make them caramelized, sweet and sour.

These onions can be used for many things and are really a recipe unto themselves since they’re basically the only onions I could ever just pop into my mouth whole and lustily enjoy. All you do after you’ve peeled the onions (which I accomplish by cross-topping then blanching to make it easier) is douse them in a bit of molasses and verjus. They merely sauté until the liquid turns to caramel syrup and coats the onions, et voila. In case you are unfamiliar with the ingredient, verjus is an acidic juice made from unripe grapes and can be used in place of vinegar to remarkable effect. Bonny Doon Vineyards makes a very nice domestic verjus, should you find yourself in the market.

The other great thing about Goose Bourguignon is that you get to light it on fire. I NEVER miss the chance to light something on fire, as the cabinets above my stove will attest. It’s also a “one for the pot, one for me” kind of dish, since it has both wine and cognac in it, but you don’t actually use the whole bottle of either.

I mean, it would be a shame to let all that good booze go to waste, right? Don’t worry though, if you’re pregnant, all the liquor burns off in the sauce and you can save those remaining nips in the bottle for the next time you invite me over. Which better be when you’re making this Goose Bourguignon.

Goose Bourguignon

Serves 8

  • Goose meat picked from 1 leftover goose carcass
  • ½ lb bacon cut into lardons
  • 4 medium carrots, chopped
  • 2 shallots, chopped
  • 1 tbsp salt
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 2 tsp chopped fresh thyme
  • ½ c cognac
  • 2 c burgundy (other other full-bodied red wine)
  • 2 c stock (I use goose stock since I’ve already made it from my goose, but duck or beef stock will do nicely)
  • 2 tbsp tomato paste
  • 1 tsp grated Meyer lemon zest
  • 1 tbsp flour
  • 1 tbsp room temperature butter
  • 1 recipe Verjus onions (see below)
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  1. In a dutch oven, fry the bacon until it’s crisp. Remove it to a towel-lined plate and reserve. Add the carrots, onions and salt and sauté until crisp tender, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and thyme and stir for one minute.
  2. Being mindful of your proximity, add the cognac to the rear of the pot (tilting slightly if necessary) and light it on fire. Allow the flames to subside and add the wine, stock, tomato paste, lemon zest, and goose meat.  Stir to combine, then simmer uncovered over a very low flame for half an hour.
  3. Mix the butter and the flour into a beurre manie and whisk into the Bourguignon. Add the Verjus onions. Cook for an additional five minutes while the sauce thickens. Adjust seasonings with salt and pepper. Serve over gnocchi ( I used beet gnocchi here), noodles, or potatoes.

Verjus Onions

  • 20-30 pearl onions, peeled (to peel, cross-top, blanch, let cool, and pop onions from skins)
  • ½ c Verjus
  • 2 tbsp molasses
  1. 1. In a small sauté pan, combine the onions, verjus and molasses. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens and caramelizes around the onions. Remove from heat and reserve.
share, bitches...

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  16. Wow!
    That does look good!

  17. First time commenting here – just wanted to say this goose bourguignon dish looks spectacular, in particular the beet gnocchi. I am a beet enthusiast, and you inspired me to try making my own beet gnocchi, which are freezing out on my deck as I type this (10 degrees here with a below zero wind chill!). They will be cooked up tomorrow along with a ragu. Can’t wait!

    Thank you for the idea and the inspiration! Love your writing and your blog.

  18. Hi.
    I just needed to say that I am super eager to have that gnocchi recipe!
    It must taste as good and impressive as it looks.

    Thanks for luring me into here with your photos!

  19. the color in those gnocchi is so dramatic…almost bloody. veramente vampireschi, belli e drammatici

  20. Daaaaamn, girl! This is totally rocking my little socks off (and they are super awesome lucha libre socks, so it’s going to take a lot to rock them off)!

    One of my missions for 2011 is to roast a goose (didn’t happen in 2010, sadly) and when I have my leftovers I’m going to make this amazingness. Also, that beet gnocchi sure is one of the prettiest things I e’er did see.

    Heart you, oh muffcakey goddess of us other muffcake bitches.

    Jax x

  21. Where the heck do you come up with all these crazy ideas? I’d sure like to see inside your brain sometime. This one ROCKS!

    Happy New Year,
    Don

  22. Hi Linda!

    Wow that is impressive. I cannot wait for the beet gnocchi recipe! It adds a really nice color to compliment the goose. Great job.

    Jessica

  23. I wish I was Bourguinon’d right now! :D Love your post and can’t wait for the beet gnocchi recipe, too. Happy Salty New Year!

  24. Beautiful pictures. I have never had goose, but this would be a great intro dish for me. Love your blog. Congrats on making Foodbuzz Top 9…well deserved!!

  25. You should see the amount of killing going on in the 916. If you come visit me you might even get your own shotgun:)

  26. ellen drinkwater

    Share, bitches?! Jesus–are you fucking kidding? So you’re joking, I guess you’ll say, but nobody needs to talk like that unless with their very closest friends and nobody else will be seeing or hearing it. Shame on you. Get a grip on dealing with a public forum, lady.

    marisa Reply:

    @ellen drinkwater
    You must be new. All of Salty’s readers are bitches and hoes. And we’re kind of proud of it.

  27. I would pretty much gobble up each one of those ingredients on their own, so I think it goes without saying that I’m loving them cooked altogether in this way … As a broke peasant myself, I wholeheartedly agree with you re: peasant ingenuity.

  28. Always happy to see you light something on fire, Linda…I love every aspect of this post esp. your thoughts on peasant brilliance. ps the third photo down from the top is my fav :)

  29. This looks truly amazing!! What great colours.. I have had beetroot gnocchi before and loved it…thank you for sharing the recipe with me :)

  30. yum!! and what a brilliant idea with goose meat!

  31. this looks amazing. I must try the beet gnocchi. Such a vibrant color!

  32. Stunning photos – especially the first one. The flavours in this dish sound even more tantalizing than beef bourguignon.

  33. Lovely fire. Gots to burn that ish up! :-p

  34. I always learn something from you ; ) I’m going to bourguignon more often ; ) Happy New Year Salty xoxo

  35. [...] out this delicious-looking recipe for Goose Bourguignon with Beet Gnocchi from Salty [...]

  36. Beets are the one foodstuff I can’t abide, but those gnocchi are awfully pretty. And the idea of goose bourguignon sounds really fabulous!

  37. Peasants rule!! And if you say anything bad about them, they’ll storm the crap out of every Bastille in sight! The gnocchi have an amazing color. Despite the propensity for beets to make your prep area look like a murder scene, they do keep their vibrant color nicely!

  38. I guess I would eat anything made with beets due to that fantastic color! This looks amazing!

  39. I will have to remember to use bourguignoned as a verb more often. I came over for the gnocchi, but now I am wondering what else I could bourguignon?

  40. Wow. I do learn new things every time I read your post (sorry for being a kiss-ass, but it’s true). Really creative and love the color of beet gnocchi.

  41. Are you bourguignoned?

    That beet gnocchi is a nice touch. Where I can find pearl onions on the island is a mystery, but I am excited to try that caramelized treat.

  42. This recipe sound perfecto…I’m intrigued by the Goose Bourguinon but the beet gnocchi have me dreaming already. Are we getting the recipe or you have it here already?

    Happy 2011 dear Linda. ¡Muchos besos!

    Linda Reply:

    @Valentina, The beet gnocchi recipe with all its exactitude will come soon- i didn’t realize it would be so popular:)

  43. [...] This post was mentioned on Twitter by Tracey Black. Tracey Black said: RT @SaltySeattle: {New Post} Fire!, Goose Bourguignon, Beet Gnocchi & Verjus-Caramelized Onions: http://t.co/qqrtg5g [...]

  44. Incredible. I’ve had beef bourguignon, but not goose. I’m salivating.

  45. Julia-philes- I love it!

    This looks incredible! Love the idea of making Beef Bourguinon, haven’t given it a shot. But damn, goose bourguinon? I may be trying goose sooner than later because the recipe and photos look fabulous. You’re amazing. With your amazing self.

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