Dungeness crab cakes on pea sprouts with lemongrass kaffir sake beurre blanc

When daddy’s away, mama will play, you’d better believe it!  Jonas high-tailed it to Japan for work last week and left Bentley and I to our own devices.  The first thing I taught Bentley to do was jump on the bed. Every self-respecting 16 month old should know how to do that, right?  The next order of business on my list of infidelities? Cram in as much slithery slippery savory sexy seafood as possible over the week (and do so while watching all the chick flicks I need to catch up on since the last time he left town).  Jonas isn’t big into our fair friends from the sea with the exception of Ahi tuna, so it’s not easy to get my daily quota. 

edamame starter

In our pre-Bentley life we used to frequent these establishments called restaurants wherein I would eat my fishy fill. Since his arrival, however, I can barely remember what those places look like as the bambino refuses to sit in one for more than 10 minutes, so we’ve temporarily succumbed to a hiatus on dining out.  I realized I was deficient in my fish intake when I went strolling through Uwajimaya grocery store last week and began involuntarily licking the glass between me and the frolicking lobsters in the aquarium.   As other patrons looked on in horror, I came to terms with my obvious withdrawal symptoms and had a closer look around the well-stocked seafood department for something seasonal and fresh.  As luck would have it, a windfall of Dungeness crabbies had just meandered in and plunged themselves into the crab boil. The good fishmongers at Uwajimaya took it upon themselves to de-shell the luscious red-tinged meat, so how could I pass up buying a healthy handful (or three)? 

kaffir lime leaves

I’m on a bit of a kick with mixing Old World A (Europe) with Old World B (Asia) these days.  I think it’s because I’m smack dab in the middle of both of them here in Seattle- it’s kind of where we get our concept of Northwest fusion.  I knew I wanted to throw together some locally-inspired crab cakes with my lumpy loot, complete with local duck eggs and Dungeness from our own high seas.  I also wanted to incorporate elements of my two Old Worlds, however, which is where a souped-up beurre blanc comes in.  Although I’m sure the French will disagree, I feel this rendition of beurre blanc complete with kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass and a substitution of unfiltered sake for the white wine knocks any staid classic version out of the water.  And it sure dresses a mean crab cake!  The crab cakes themselves were dressed up with a few tablespoons of lemon mint mayonnaise for a subtle citrus note. 

pea sprouts

 Throw in some lime and oil-drenched pea sprouts and sub panko for breadcrumbs et voila- another global masterpiece debuts in the Salty Seattle kitchen. 

persimmon, pear pomegranate salad

 I served this with a persimmon, poached pear and pomegranate salad (because you know alliteration is so important in haute cuisine) and invited some subversive neighbors and friends to get in on the naughty nosh.  We had such a spectacular time, sake bombs notwithstanding, that I just had to make the meal a second time around before Jonas returned- it was that good! 

Dungeness Crab Cakes with Lemongrass Kaffir Sake Beurre Blanc

Serves 4

For the crab cakes:

• 1 pound fresh Dungeness crab meat
• ¾ cup panko breadcrumbs
• 5 tbsp lemon mint mayonnaise (recipe to follow)
• 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
• 2 duck eggs lightly beaten

Mix all ingredients together and form into eight round patties.  In a large skillet, fry 2-3 minutes per side over medium heat. 

lemon mint mayonnaise

For the lemon mint mayonnaise:

• 1 duck egg
• 1/2 tsp salt
• ½ c packed mint leaves
• 2 tbsb lemon juice
• Pinch dry mustard
• Black pepper
• ¾ c canola oil

 Mix all ingredients except oil in food processor for 30 seconds.  Add oil to desired consistency through tube in steady stream over the course of one minute.  Do not over mix.  Mayonnaise should keep in refrigerator up to three days. 

For the lemongrass sake kaffir beurre blanc:

• 1 small shallot chopped coarsely
• ½ stalk lemongrass cut into ½” rounds
• ½ tsp peppercorns whole
• 2 bay leaves ripped in a few places to impart flavor
• 6 kaffir lime leaves ripped in a few places to impart flavor
• ¾ c sake
• 2 tbsp rice vinegar
• 1 cup heavy whipping cream
• 1 stick butter chopped into ¼” cubes 

Reduce all ingredients except cream and butter in a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat to half of original volume. Add the cream and continue to reduce again by half.  Pour through a fine-mesh strainer into a clean saucepan and whisk in the butter a few pieces at a time. Rewarm before drizzling over crab cakes.  

For assembly:

•  Crab cakes
• 2 c pea sprouts
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• Quality finishing salt to taste
• Lime or lemon juice to taste
• Beurre blanc 

Toss the pea sprouts with the oil, lemon and salt.  Layer each plate with pea sprouts, two crab cakes, and beurre blanc.

In Seattle, it’s a well-guarded secret that September and sunshine go hand in hand.  This is how I manage to sneak in a few final al fresco dinners before the need for simmering stews and hot hearty fare takes over completely.  September is also one of the best times of year to visit Uwajimaya, Seattle’s premier shopping destination for arcane Asiatica.  Since it is harvest time all over the Northern Hemisphere, Uwajimaya has some crazy unheard of produce on-hand, from yama-imo (Japanese mountain potatoes) to Vietnamese nubbly Jackfruit. 

Go in with a camera and a translator and you’ll come out all the richer for it.  In fact I nominate Uwajimaya as one of the best “stay-cation” ideas of the year.  It’s one of the only places in town where you can immerse yourself in a uniquely interesting culture without buying a plane ticket.    

My homage to Hawaii and her glorious Ahi tuna doesn’t seem so exotic after perusing Uwajimaya’s shelves, but oh man, this is a popular dish.  Not that these people even exist anymore, but if you do have a friend who wrinkles her nose at the mere suggestion of sushi, slide a bit of this plate under her nose without telling her what it is.  All thoughts of raw fish will evaporate into mmmmm’s and aaaaah’s of yummy joy before she knew what hit her. 

This meal would be great picnic fare- you can make the Ahi marinade a few hours in advance, just fry up your crisps, put them into a bag, and tote your salsa and Poke down to Discovery Park to catch an early, fiery sunset on the sound.  Bring along some unfiltered sake to sip on chilled while you soak in the last September rays.  Then, to take the edge off once the sun sets, open your thermos of hot sake- it will warm your heart and clear your head. 

Ahi Poke with Fried Wonton Crisps and Mango Avocado Salsa

Ahi Poke

Serves 4

• 1 lb sushi-grade Ahi tuna sliced into ¼” cubes
• ½ c tamari (good quality soy sauce)
• 2 garlic cloves chopped fine
• 2 scallions (green only, chopped fine)
• 1 tsp chopped ginger
• 2 tbsp hoisin sauce
• 1 tbsp sesame oil
• ¼ c chopped macadamia nuts

1.  Combine all ingredients in medium bowl, refrigerate for 2-4 hours, and serve with fried wonton crisps and mango avocado salsa.

Fried Wonton Crisps

• 1 package wonton wrappers
• Heavy-bottomed saucepan filled with 1” canola oil
• Alaea salt

1. 1.        Cut wonton wrappers along the diagonal two times forming four triangles.  You can cut several at once, and use as many as you want to offer per person- I suggest 12-15, so for four people you will cut approximately 60 chips. 
2. 2.       Heat oil to 350-360°.  Fry two wonton wrappers at a time, 15-20 seconds per side until golden brown.  Remove from oil, place on sheetpan lined with paper towels to drain oil. Repeat with remaining wrappers and finish with a light smattering of Hawaiian Alaea salt. 

Mango Avocado Salsa

• 1 ripe mango
• 2 avocados
• 1 large heirloom tomato
• Juice of 1 lime
• ¼ c mint chopped fine
• 2 garlic cloves
• Black lava salt to taste

1.  Cut mango, avocado and tomato into ¼” cubes and place in small mixing bowl.  Add remaining ingredients, mix and serve within 1 hour.

Assembly

Rim a round plate with wonton crisps.  Place a large dollop of salsa and a large dollop of Ahi poke in the center of the plate.  Invite your guests to use the wonton crisps to scoop the fillings much like chips and salsa.  Enjoy!