Posts Tagged ‘ uwajimaya

Should I Go Rural to Get Closer to My Food?

In the spirit of pursuing things that matter in the new year, I’ve been distilling my priorities. I am the type of person whose home reflects the state of her inner monologue. If my home is clean and orderly, so is my head and heart. I can work, cook, and generally have a more positive outlook. I love my current house, but I’m starting to grow restless.

I am fortunate to live in a single-family home that is very near the nucleus of Seattle and all she has to offer. I can be at Pike Place Market in five minutes flat. I do much of my shopping there, from farm-fresh eggs to esoteric cuts of meat like veal shins and Moulard duck legs to foraged produce such as fiddlehead ferns or morel mushrooms. On the rare occasions when I can’t get what I need at Pike Place, it’s likely that Uwajimaya, the most well-stocked Asian grocer in the Northwest, will have it. I am there at least three times a week, and they keep me in pig’s heads, Buddha’s hands and chicken feet as well as pea shoots, yamaimo potatoes and all manner of sea creatures, from urchins to smelt roe. Read more

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Failure: Marrow-Poached Lobster Tail with Beet Risotto, Wilted Amaranth & Citrus Crème Fraiche

lobster tail

Honestly, what the hell was I thinking? I would love for you to think that every plate to grace my table is a triumph of gastronomic proportions, but I would be lying, dear readers. This meal was onesuch dinner that I F-ed up big time. I’m laughing now, but it took me a couple of days to write this given the fact that I was drowning my sorrow in a bucket of Gallo. Seriously though, this is a classic case of too many flavors on the plate, and I think it’s important to post it as a constant reminder to keep it real. Bells and whistles are great in the kitchen to the extent that they actually improve the end result, but doing things for the sake of doing them will often backfire. I had a conversation with a vegetarian friend recently who talked about a dining experience he’d had. He said it was as though the chef lumped vegetarians into the “kitchen sink” category. Well, if you don’t eat meat, you must eat millet, chard, corn, onions, pomegranates, avocados, maple syrup, polenta and mustard, so you’ll probably like it all in one dish, right? Wrong. Now that I evaluate the concoction I tried to serve my unsuspecting dinner guest, I realize I had a bout of temporary insanity. Let’s hope it’s temporary, anyway. Let’s talk ingredients. I brashly tried to mix lobster, vanilla, tarragon, crème fraiche, orange juice, amaranth, beets, rice, bone marrow and bay leaves into one dish. Whatever happened to the three ingredient rule? Jeesh! It all went wrong because when I get into my favorite grocery store, Uwajimaya, I am like Posh in a Prada boutique. It is especially excessive right now because it’s August- EVERYTHING is in season. Walking through the produce department on any given day, there are fifty new berries, bulbs, stone fruits, stalks, and greens I want to come home with me. I get home and survey my loot and often plan several meals from it, but on this occasion I was pressed for time, so I think I believed I could just combine everything into one meal. The amaranth looked so sweet, red and succulent, though in truth it takes like ze pee pee of a horse. It does not play nicely with the bacon in which I braised it, and don’t let anyone tell you differently. There’s a reason amaranth is healthfood.  After this meal I’m placing it firmly in the camp of arugula- a substance whose time has come and needs to get gone on the early train tomorrow morning before I strangle it for borrowing my toothbrush for the hundredth time this weekend.

marrow

The very nice butcher was hacking away at cow bones when I happened to walk by. There is no greater turn on, let me tell you (that bout of insanity I told you about may be persisting). I couldn’t resist but to buy a few pounds, thinking some slathery marrow sounded like just what the doctor would undoubtedly order if he were in my shoes-heart attack be damned- right? Then a few feet down the way, two lobster tails lured me toward them in a siren-song tractor beam sort of way. They jumped into my handcart, conversed with the bones, and asked me if they could go on a group date in the sous vide machine. Being the kind carnivore that I am, I told them no problem, take a bath in the bone marrow, and then I will eat you, you little smooshy fishies, bwaaahaaahaaahaa! Did I mention I had also gathered an armload of beets, both red and golden? Wanting to practice my Parisienne ball scooping technique (which is just melon-balling tiny spheres of any given veggie- so pretty with beets) I conjured a risotto resting place for the resulting beet balls. So think on this with me. We’ve got multicolored beets, risotto, lobster, marrow, amaranth and bacon on the plate- just to name the big contenders. Who the hell did I think was going to come out ahead? Certainly not my roiling stomach. I’ve illustrated what went wrong, so I bet you’d like to hear how it all tasted. Have you ever been to the zoo? You know that breed of primate- baboons, I think- that flagranty show off their manly boobs and butts and go around all king of the jungle flinging poo in eachothers faces and grimacing for the oogling hordes? Well can you imagine what the bottom of their cage tastes like at the end of a long day poo-flinging? That just about comes close to describing how delectable this meal was. Don’t poach lobster in bone marrow- it makes it mealy and gritty. Just plain don’t eat amaranth. It’s like hooking up with a stranger after a long night of tequila- looked good when you singled it out and brought it home, but it’s the next day and you still can’t get the rank taste out of your mouth. Beet risotto is fine. Great, even. But it will forever remind me of my one night stand with every damn thing on the supermarket shelves of Uwajimaya, and so on principle, I must abstain- at least until I get drunk and do it all over again! Moral of the story- don’t go to the store in a hungry hurry, and when in doubt, leave it out. That is all, thank you for listening to me rant, I hope you learn from the error of my ways, good bye.

tails

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Rambutan Gelato

title rambutan 

I’ve been on a frozen, sweet kick lately in my posts, but then, that’s what springtime is all about. Don’t worry, I’m sure we’ll see the return of pasta and duck eggs very soon.  I am a lucky girl. Imagine stumbling upon a ripe, succulent basket of rambutans in Seattle in May. It happened to me a few days back and for that I am grateful. What, say you, is a rambutan? It’s a tropical fruit like a lychee that is all things gorgeous wrapped into one spherical, brilliant package.  I imagine you can guess what I did with said fruits if you know me at all by now. Yes, I made gelato. And it tasted like a little scoop of tropical paradise. As it should. 

whole rambutan

I probably sing the praises of Uwajimaya market in Seattle entirely too much on this blog, but I can’t help it. It’s like a giant cornucopia of amazing ingredients with which to endlessly experiment.  I don’t often have the chance to bite into the spiky splendoriffic rambutans, so when I do I really maximize my mouthful, if you know what I mean. 

rambutan hemisphere

Uwajimaya gets little shipments of precious produce in frequently. You never know what you will find.  More often than not you find something utterly addictive, yet upon returning to the store, alas, it is no more.  Ah well, the name of the culinary game is versatility, and this rambutan gelato speaks volumes to that. 

rambutan black

It almost tastes grape-like, if the grapes were in their especially succulent, very raw state. No amount of fermenting or cooking would benefit the rambutans in gelato, so I made sure to keep them in merely a cold yet pureed form.  Texture is everything when it comes to frozen custard, and this fairly safe rendition of a classic custard ratio does not disappoint.  In the words of Yo Gabba Gabba (you will get this reference if you are the parent of a small child) “Try it. You’ll like it.” 

rambutan aerial 

Rambutan Gelato

  • 16 rambutans,  shelled and pitted
  • 2 c milk
  • 3 egg yolks
  • ½ c sugar
  • Salt- pinch
  • 1 tsp vanilla

 Blend rambutan’s with ¾ c milk.  Place blended mixture in a mixing bowl with a fine mesh strainer set over the top.  In a medium saucepan warm the remaining milk with the sugar and salt. Once it’s nearly boiling, quickly whisk it into the waiting egg yolks and transfer the mixture back into the saucepan, whisking all the while. 

Stir constantly until the custard thickens enough to coat the back of your spoon. Pour through the strainer into the rambutan mixture, add vanilla, and chill over an ice bath stirring occasionally. 

 Chill custard in the refrigerator thoroughly before churning into ice cream/gelato following your ice cream maker’s instructions.

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